Composite front and back doors installed throughout the Midlands. All our composite door prices include VAT, fitting, building certificate and remove of old frames and doors. We are also able to supply these composite doors to many locations in England. Contact us for a free quote for your requirements.
Roughly speaking, a composite door a door made from modern materials that mimic the appearance of a natural wood door without some of the negatives that a wooden door can bring like having to paint it for example.
There are many makes, manufactures and styles of composite doors on the market ranging from average quality to very good quality. Some composite doors are mass produced in three different sizes and shipped over to the UK in containers ready to be machined to the right size, have the glazing fitted and possibly sprayed to the desired colour. A frame is made for the door, a locking system is attached and there you have a door. The door can only be as good as the quality of materials used and the workmanship bringing it all together. Generally these are the lower cost composite doors that we tend to stay away from because we would rather fit a better standard of door. After all they are built to a budget. The cheaper composite doors however make doors more affordable though so there is a market for them. One thing we don’t like about these door slabs shipped over in mass quantities is that because they use three different sizes you could find that the one used for your door has had a fair amount of material removed form the sides to get the width you require, thus weakening it in the process and making it easier to fail if someone tries to break in. The core for these doors is generally foam which sounds a bit lightweight but actually it is not as bad as it sounds.
The alternative way of building a door is the way the likes of Rocal Endurance, Solidors and Solid Core composite doors use. These are wooden cores cut to size so there is no weakening of the edges of the slab as the strength is consistent across the entire width and height of the door. Wood is heavier than foam so generally these doors are heavier so things like hinges need to be a consideration and a cheap hinge won’t do over time so a good quality strong hinge is required along with a frame strong enough to take the weight of the door. Because it is such a well made door and considered heavy duty compared to the light weight cheaper composites they almost always have better quality locks and cylinders too. All the doors mentioned so far use what is called a glazing cassette so the glass unit can be added towards the end of the build process and can even be changed down the line if one were to be broken by say a stone. In 15 years of dealing with doors we don’t come cross many broken glass units in doors to be honest.
Another composite door called the Rockdoor is built completely different from the timber doors. They use a foam filled door with a 10mm aluminium box section in the door slab and is made based upon the size required so you get the same strength around the edge of the slab on every door they make. Even though they are foam filled & having fitted over a thousand of these doors we have never come across one that has been broken into due to having a foam centre. Solidor like to make a point of the core of their doors being wood therefore harder to penetrate than a foam filled door but in the real world this isn’t really an issue. Where a Rockdoor is unique is in the fact that each glazing unit is built into the door as it is made and is integral to the door. The downside would be if the glass were to break but I have only come across one instance of this but it was shot at with a pellet rifle. A broken glass unit would mean a new slab would be required but it’s a non issue really.
All of the doors we fit are good quality and generally a customer will make their choice primarily based on the look of the door and the colour rather than the different features.
Perfectly is the correct answer. Here are a few very important steps to ensure your new door is properly installed: (not in an installation order)
1) If your new door is sitting on a cill, ensure it is completely level, packed underneath so it doesn't flex when the weight of the door is put onto it and ensure it is sealed properly. If its not sitting on a cill, ensure the base layer (generally Stone) is level and flat.
2) Check that the door header across the top of the door is parallel. If the gap gets bigger towards the lock side, it either wants pushing across at the top towards the hinge side, or moving across towards the latch side at the bottom, depending on how it looks on the inside/outside. If the header is parallel but you have a swing on your door, the base/cill is not level. You will have to raise the cill on one side and then recorrect the positioning of the door.
3) It is important once the door is in to check the swing of the door, opening the door to 90 degrees tests the side to side level (please use a level to ensure complete accuracy), if it swings one way or another, the door is not sitting square, opening the door to around 30 degree will test the front to back level (please use a level to ensure complete accuracy), generally most plaster is out of level so you never push a door back to the plaster, it can only take a couple of mm to put a swing on a door. If it swings at around 30 degrees, then it wants the top or the bottom bringing forward or backwards depending on the situation.
4) Check the twist. The twist on a door is an extremely important part of door installation. The twist refers to how twisted the frame is, you want the front edge of the door to be touching or pass the frame top to bottom at the same time, we often see doors that are shut on the latch and its touching the seal at the top of the door, but the bottom of the door is 6-10mm away from the seal, this is almost always because of the twist. To correct the twist, ensure the hinge side is level front to back and then move either the top or bottom of the lock side inwards or outwards to correct.
5) Ensure all fixings are packed and the remaining gaps are filled with expanding foam. Check with your level that the hinge and lock side of the frame are not bowed in any direction and are completely flat.